This fall, I've spent a lot of time mushroom hunting around the Oregon Coast and around Mt. Hood. Mycology is quickly becoming one of my favorite hobbies, and here are some photographs of mushrooms around North West Oregon. I'm labeling them according to Best GUESSES only, and am by no means a specialist.
Splash Cups are so cute.
The number one question asked in a nursery is probably, “What is wrong with my soil?” It's funny, because often times people place their plants next to other plants that are not companions, but the first suspect always seems to be the dirt.
Of course, asking about soil is like jumping into the middle of the ocean. The study of soil is a science unto itself, but for centuries, farmers have been using plants to indicate certain soil conditions. The more you look at your garden and the repetition of what grows in it, the easier it becomes to “read” your garden.
One of my favorite indicator plants is nasturtiums, because they attract beneficials and speak to the soil's fertility. The presence of large leaves is a sign of high fertility, and small leaves with plentiful flowers suggests poor nutrient content. Strawberries planted near your fruit trees will tell you if you are watering enough. If your strawberries do not bear fruit, it is probably because they need more water, and subsequently, so do your apples.
The most common indicator plants, however, are “weeds.” They are easily used to determine all sorts of things about your garden:
Clover = Nitrogen deficient soil
Crabgrass = Calcium and phosphorus deficient; acidic soil
Canada Thistle = Present in clay
Dandelion = Present in clay, alkaline soil
Lambs Quarters = High fertility
Moss = Poor drainage, acidic soil
Mullen = Low fertility, acidic soil
Pigweed = Poor irrigation
Pineapple Weed = Acidic soil
Plantain= Low calcium, acidic and compacted soil
Prostrate Spurge = Low calcium and compacted soil
Yarrow = Low potassium
Yellow Dock = Present in clay
My gardener friends are always looking for shortcuts and easier ways to do things. Indicator plants are certainly useful, but one single plant is not a good measure of your soil conditions. All sorts of causes could be to blame for a weed's deviant behavior of sprouting amongst your prized plants, such as seed in the compost or a stem brought in by a local critter.
Use the presence of more than one plant to help identify your soil conditions, and then add organic amendments for your desired effect. Remember, weeds were probably here first, are only weeds if they are in an undesired location.
“Gardening is the art that uses flowers and plants as paint, and the soil and sky as canvas,”
-Elizabeth Murray
References and more info: http://www.oregonbd.org/Class/Weeds.htm
http://www.yardorganics.com/indicator.html
http://books.google.com/books, -“Designing and Maintaining Your Edible Landscape Naturally,” by Robert Kourik
"Plant and your spouse plants with you; weed and you weed alone." ~Author Unknown
Organic weed prevention and control is simply more effective, cheaper, and certainly better for all living organisms than using chemically produced herbicides. Products like RoundUp, for example, actually loose effectiveness over time and certain plants are developing resistance to these chemicals.
However tempting it is to think of weeds as more indestructible than other plants, they are after all just plants, and can be irradiated. Here are five ways to control weeds, Grow Organic, and ban all Monsanto products at the same time.
1. Mulch- Not only does mulch look great, it conserves water, helps insulate plants during the winter, and is great for suppressing weeds. Any weeds that do establish themselves after mulching are easily removed by hand.
2. Boiling Water- Especially useful for driveways, pathways, and gravel, simply boil water and pour it on the weed. If it is tall, cut it back because you are targeting the roots below. If you do this in mid-day or when it is already hot, you will only double your lethality.
3. Horticultural Vinegar- Sold in most garden nurseries, this vinegar is the perfect substitute for RoundUp, without the dangerous side effects. Horticultural vinegar is higher in acetic acid than table vinegar and can be purchased as a 10% or 20% concentration. Add orange oil to the mix for a more powerful dosage. Weeds don’t stand a chance!
4. Corn Meal Gluten- Also common in garden nurseries, this by-product is gaining popularity as a weed-and-feed for your lawn. Corn Meal Gluten acts as fertilizer and a "pre-emergent weed preventer," so either weed by hand or sprinkle in the spring before weeds emerge. The rose society uses this around the bases of roses to act as an anti-fungicide against black spot, as a fertilizer, and also weed prevention. I have even used corn masa around my roses and in my rock paths and can testify that nothing else will sprout in that area.
5. Sunflowers- Known for their allelopathic nature, sunflowers inhibit vegetative growth. As rainwater drips off a sunflower leaf, it carries the plant's natural toxin to the soil below. Some farmers plant sunflowers in between corn rows for this reason. This method sticks around for awhile, so if you want to plant anything else in the future, rotate your sunflowers so that the soil remains fertile.
Even though Portland is leading the way in environmental policy, the latest statistics show that less than 5% of our food is sourced locally. This number is defiantly on the rise, but with the recent wake of earthquakes, oil spills, and other global disasters, I've been thinking a lot about food security.
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Food security is a complicated subject and there are no isolated solutions. First and foremost, while eating local is a great thing, we need to be willing to share our harvest with others and hope others will do the same for us in our times of need.
However, there is a lot we can be doing as individuals that helps us ensure our food production both now and in the future.
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1. Go Organic! Besides pesticides being held in question for everything from cancer in humans to the decline of the bee populations, there is no good argument for why organic methods aren't more encouraged. Though I hear the argument that "It's only on my lawn," when you think about how water works (as in it flows), it doesn't matter how far away your lawn is from a river or neighbor. And if you are willing to try corn meal gluten for that same lawn, why not since it's cheaper in the long run?
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2. Plant a garden with edible perennials. Fruit and nut trees, artichokes, asparagus, and berries are high yield and easily stored while also boasting more drought tolerance.
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3. Plant a row for the Food Bank. In Oregon, call (503)282-0555 Ext 260 for a donation site near you. Since when did fresh, local food become a privilege and not a right?
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4. Save your seeds and share them with others. This way we can say NO to GMO's, we keep plant diversity alive, and we maintain ancient traditions. Practice this skill, people, because whoever controls the seeds, controls the food.
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5. Start a garden or orchard in your community. Is there an empty lot or ugly space near your house? Private land is easily converted into a neighborhood garden or orchard. To make sure the land in question is non-municipal, enter the address or intersection on portlandmaps.com. Once you find your land, get your neighbors together and call Steve Cohen at the BPS (503) 823-4225 for more information.
Happy Soil Toil!
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Fertilizer: Begin to fertilize your seedlings as soon as they get their first true leaves. Water with a half-strength solution of liquid fish/seaweed fertilizer every week or two.
Scarify: to scratch or break the hard coat of some seeds, so they will germinate easily. Fine sandpaper or just soaking the seed will do the trick.
Stratifying: Many seeds require 'stratifying', or storage for a certain period in your fridge crisper to replicate winter conditions before planting. For example, most native wildflowers require six to eight weeks.
Covers: Cover the flats with plastic wrap or glass to keep the environment humid.
Heat Mats: For seeds that require warmer conditions to germinate, heat mats raise the ambient temperature 10 degrees. Human heating pads are not a good substitute.
Lights: Suspend 4’ fluorescent shop lights and two 40-watt bulbs 2 inches above the plants and gradually raise them as the seedlings mature. A timer can help you keep time from 12 to 16 hours a day.
Pet them: Lightly ruffling seedlings once or twice a day with your hand or a continuous fan helps them to grow stocky and strong.
Hardening Off: About 1 week before the plants are to go outside, start acclimating them by placing them under a cold frame, a cloche, or even in your car as a green house. After 4 or 5 days, leave them out overnight and then freely transplant them into the garden.
Storage Life of a Vegetable Seed: One to two years- Onion, parsnip, corn. Three Years- Beans, leek, parsley, pea, pepper. Four Years- Beet, carrot, pumpkin, tomato. Five years- Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, melon, radish, turnip. Six Years- Celery, cucumber, zucchini.
Big producers
Beans are the heaviest producers in the garden – Kentucky Wonder, Contender, Harcourt Vert, Fava, Ideal Market, and all shelling beans/peas.
Kale – Italian and Purple Ruffle year round and have high yields.Radish – Fast maturity and Icicle or Asian varieties produce in mid summer.Nightshades – cherry tomatoes, Black Beauty Eggplant, potatoes, and peppers.
Others – Marketmore Cucumbers, Trombino Squash, Romanesco varieties of anything, Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, horseradish, Swiss Chard, cut and come again lettuce, leeks, garlic, and shallot.
Seed Saving Info: http://www.seedsave.org
Tomato: http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/pruning-tomatoes.aspx
We are so lucky this year to have President's Day and Valentine's Day coincide, announcing the official beginning of rose season. This one goes out to Portland, City of Roses, and my lovely Aunt Linda, rose gardener extraordinaire; my two honorary Valentines.
To keep your roses healthy, there are loads of things you can do to prevent bugs and fungus from gnarling pretty petals and yellowing those beautiful, glossy green leaves. Here are a few of my favorite organic tips that will help you keep your roses healthy and pest-free throughout the season.
Corn Meal Gluten- Corn Meal Gluten is making a name for itself because it has fertilizing properties (N 9%), is a pre-emergent herbicide (keeps dandelion seeds from sprouting), and is an anti-fungicide. Cultivate into the surface of soil about the same thickness as the powdered sugar on a dough nut to prevent black spot and weeds. Used and recommended as well by the Portland Rose Society, using CMG also recycles a byproduct.
Tomatoes- A companion plant to roses, tomatoes help to repel certain bugs and fungus. If you do not choose to plant tomatoes directly in your rose garden, you can make a spray from tomato leaves to spray directly on your roses. Put a few handfuls of tomato leaves in the blender with five pints of water and one tablespoon of cornstarch, strain and spray.
Remove the first foot of leaves- Ask Cisco has some of the best gardening tips, and this is one of his. Since fungus remains dormant in the soil during the winter, it becomes active again by rain, using the splash from the raindrops to reattach itself to the plant’s leaves. If you remove all the leaves on the first foot of the plant, the fungus will have no place to reactivate and start this cycle.
Banana Peels- For years, gardeners have sworn that cutting up a banana peel and placing it just beneath the soil of the plant every three weeks keeps aphids away. It does help feed the voracious and endless appetite of the rose, so perhaps it supports the plants immune system. If aphids do become a problem in the season, spray them off with water every day, and if that doesn’t work, try Neem oil.
Fertilizer- Roses are heavy feeders so compost, organic fertilizer, worm castings, or your favorite method is needed regularly during the growing season. I’ve seen the most surprising results from compost tea, a great thing to add to your routine a couple times during the year for super results. Roses like it a bit acidic, and others swear by coffee grounds for this, but coffee is no quick fix.
Garlic- Well known for its repellent qualities for bugs, garlic oil has some surprising results on slugs, not only deterring them but actually killing them when in direct contact.
Pruning- This couldn't be easier, and is not very different from other plants. First, remove all dead wood and stems. Second, remove anything that is growing in towards the center of the plant, crossing other branches or preventing proper aeration. Third, prune to shape. Here is more information.
P.S. Is it a coincidence that the best time to start rose care is around Valentine’s Day, the time plant potatoes is around St. Patrick’s Day, and Sunflowers grow best when planted after May Day?
It feels like spring has arrived here on the West Coast, and right now, everybody keeps asking me about privacy hedges and screening plants. It must be time to think about backyard BBQ’s, or maybe people are staying at home more and making their own backyard oasis. The popular trend right now is the Landscape Trinity, easily becoming the benchmark of yard design: Bamboo, a Japanese Maple and a Hot Tub.
Rather than wait for a living wall to block out those pesky neighbors from seeing your hot tub parties, you could secure lattice on top of a backyard fence to add a few extra feet of legal screening. You could always grow a vine through it such as Evergreen Jasmine, Honeysuckle, or Abekia. Or you can build a small structure such as an arbor, pergola, or small covered seating ‘casita’ to create a screen if you have a specific problem area.
If you choose to go the plant route, remember that these plants will probably be here longer than you so waiting for 5 years or so for privacy should seem reasonable (ahem- bamboo instant gratification). Also, narrowing down both form and function can help you make decisions about your landscape. Privacy gardens that are layered with tall, understory, and vegetation layers is ideal. And a general rule (one that doesn't apply to all situations) is to place larger trees the north or west for more sun, and reverse for more shade.
If you do have your heart set on bamboo, I strongly suggest clumping bamboo. It can be quite useful for stakes and trellises, and can also reach astonishing heights with very narrow form.
The best place to start is at your nursery, because they will probably have a Privacy section or if not, some general suggestions for you to see. The following list is an effort to give some different ideas to those that would be presented at the nursery so you will be armed with more options than commonly seen as Arborvitae or Laurel. And remember, sometimes wishing something will grow quickly becomes a burden later on down the road.
Evergreen Edibles
- Trees:
Abequia or Leccino Olive - How sweet is it to have a self fertile 8-10 ft tree and brine your own olives for your next dinner party?
Pineapple Guava – Plant two if you would like fruit, but the flowers alone are worth getting just one, growing 8-12 ft.
Stone Pine – Depending on the variety, grows anywhere from 30-70 ft. Cones contain a nut that is delicious and nutritious.
- Shrubs:
Bay Laurel – Fragrant shrub grows 6-8 ft, with some varieties like Sweet Bay and Wavy Bay reaching 12 ft. Used in all your favorite soup recipes.
Osmanthus – For those that like Holly without the invasion, this one is for you ranging in size and offering beautiful flowers and fall fruit. Some varieties are used to make tea.
Silverberry – Topping out at 8 ft tall, Silverberry is related to Goumi and Autumn Olive, and prized for its foliage, fragrant white flowers, and red fruit. Also fixes nitrogen to the soil like legumes.
Tea Camellia – Evergreen but not as tall as regular Camellias reaching only around 6 ft, but used to make white, black and green tea. Cute little white, fall flowers.
Evergreen Natives
- Trees:
Fir, Cedar, Juniper, Spruce – These evergreens come in many shapes and sizes (including narrow and conical) and you might receive a Treebate for choosing certain varieties.
Oregon Myrtle (also Chilean, Californian, Wax, etc.)- Slow growing, but evergreen, fragrant, and interesting reaching 20-25 Ft at maturity.
- Shrubs:
Ceanothus – Evergreen California lilac grows like a Camellia, is drought resistant, and some varieties are native. Not the most original or longest lasting blooms, but deserves a mention.
Coast Silktassel – Late winter and early spring blooming, 6-8 ft and equally wide unless pruned.
Coffeeberry – Growing to about 15 ft, this drought tolerant upright shrub supports wildlife.
Rhododendron – Evergreen, prunable, and pretty.
(Mostly) Evergreen Ornamental
- Trees:
Arbutus Marina – This evergreen bird menagerie is slow growing, related to the Madrone, and reaches 30 feet, depending on conditions.
Boxleaf Azara (Pictured) – If planted in fertile soil, this can be a fast growing evergreen reaching 20 feet tall and a mere 8 feet wide in 10 years, with sweet smelling yellow flowers. Late winter blooming and great for small spaces. The perfect urban tree?...perhaps.
Evergreen Dogwood - 12-15 ft and pretty standard as far as Dogwoods go.
Evergreen Magnolia – Hello Beautiful. Tall and moderately fast growing.
Empress Tree – Deciduous but extremely fast growing with beautiful and fragrant flowers.
Hardy Avocado (Persea Yunnanensis) – Umbrella shaped at 18 feet and related to the Bay and Avocado tree, this interesting specimen is very wildlife friendly.
Strawberry Tree – Also related to the Madrone, a bit slow growing and aptly named for the red fruit it produces in fall. Reaches 15 feet.
- Shrubs:
Camellia – Pretty evergreens that can be pruned to be the perfect screen, but select one with a bloom time that matches how much time you want to spend raking spent flower petals.
Holly Sweetspire – Great for those shady spots, 8 feet by 6 feet, this shrub’s sweet smelling, long, dangling chartreuse flowers rather tropical looking.
Mexican Orange Blossom – This is a moderate grower with a top height of 8 ft has beautiful and fragrant flowers in spring, and terriffic foliage.
Pittosporum – Some pretty interesting options here again varying in height with spring flowers.
Tea Tree – Sweet little pink hued flowers grace this 9 ft, very cool medicinal shrub.
Wintersweet – Another deciduous shrub but is mentioned because it reaches 12 ft by 10 ft and is blooming right now (like the super awesome Witch Hazel) with extremely fragrant yellow flowers.
This is the 2010 Fruit and Vegetable list for Grow Me Organics clients. It will be posted on the website but I wanted to post it on my blog as well so it is available immediately. If you would like a certain varietal that you do not see below, feel free to make a request.
If you would like an estimate for your own organic garden, Grow Me Organics still has availability for 2010, serving the Portland Metro area. 503-442-3794 email: sara@growmeorganics.com.
Vegetables (and some fruit):
Asparagus - Mary Washington
Beans (String) - Classic Slenderette, Contender, Gold of Bacau, Purple Pole, Scarlett Runner, Stringless Blue Lake, & Tricolor Bush
Beets - Early Wonder, Golden & Jewel Toned
Broccoli - All Season Blend, Romanesco & Waltham
Broccoli Raab (Rapini) - Zamboni
Brussels Sprouts - Roodnerf & Rubine
Cabbage - Copenhagen Market, Mammoth Red Rock & Monument Chinese
Carrot - French Baby, Nantes, Purple & Red
Cauliflower - Purple Cape
Celery - Utah
Chard (Swiss) - Bright Lights
Chrysanthemum Greens
Corn - Sweet White & Tom Thumb Popping
Cucumber - Japanese Climbing, Lemon & Pickling
Edamame
Eggplant - Black Beauty & Fairy Tale
Kale - Wild Garden & Italian
Kohlrabi - Early Vienna White
Leek - King Richard
Lettuce – Buttercrunch, Deer Tongue, Four Seasons Heirloom, Gourmet Lettuce Mix, Market Blend, Mesclun Blend, Seed Savers Lettuce Blend, Slowbolt, Summer Lettuce Mix & Winter Lettuce Mix
Melon - Passport & Watermelon
Okra - Red Burgundy
Onion - Red Burgundy & Walla Walla Sweet
Pac Choi - Violetta
Parsnip - Cobham
Peas - Sugar Snap & Golden Sweet Snow Pea
Pepper - Sweet: California Wonder, Casablanca, Baby Bell & Jewel Tone
Hot: Anaheim, Jalapeno & Thai
Pumpkin - Carving: Antique French, Howden Jack O' Lantern & Snack R' Jack
Radicchio - Rollo Rossa
Radish - Easter Egg, Red Morse & Icicle
Salad Burnet
Scallions - Red & White
Shallot
Spinach - Catalina, New Zealand & Red Malabar
Squash - Summer: Green Spineless Zucchini, Gold Rush, Romanesco Zucchini, Tricolor Pattypan, Tricolor Zucchini & Yellow Crookneck
Winter: Baby Doll, Buttercup, Carnival & Sugar Hubbard
Spaghetti: Small Wonder
Strawberries - Spring Bearing
Raspberries - Spring Bearing
Sunberry - Garden Huckleberry
Tat Soy
Tomitillo - Pineapple & Purple
Tomato - Brandywine, Crimson Carmello, German Green, Green Zebra, Isis Candy Cherry, Marvel Stripe, Pineapple, Speckled Roma, Sweet 100 Cherry, Tricolor Cherry & Yellow Pear
Turnip - Oasis & Seven Top
Herbs:
Artichoke - Globe & Violetta
Arugula - Italian Pesto
Basil - Cinnamon, Genovese, Large Leaf Container, Pesto & Thai
Catnip
Chives
Cilantro - Slow Bolt
Dill - Ducat
Garlic
German Chamomile
Lavender – Munstead English
Marjoram - Zaatar Wild Organic
Mint - Lemon
Navajo Tea
Nasturtium - Climbing Moonlight, Jewel & Tip Top
Oregano
Parsley - Italian & Curley
Peppermint
Sage - Tangerine & Garden
Shisho - Purple
Society Garlic
Summer Savory
Thyme
Quinoa - Brightest Rainbow
Flowers and Ornamentals:
Alyssum - Carpet of Snow
Amaranth - Love Lies Bleeding & Ponytails
Cosmos - Dancing Petticoats
Globe Thistle - Blue
Lark Spur - Earl Grey
Lupine - Russell Mix
Marigold - Mix
Painted Tongue Flower
Poppies - Icelandic, Himalayan Blue & Pink
Purple Hyacinth Bean
Sea Holly - Blue
Sweet Pea - Perfume Delight & Window Box
Sunflower - Chocolate Cherry, Knee High, Mammoth, Sun Samba, Sunzilla
Zinnias - Cool Crayon & Granny's Bouquet
Tubers - Potato, Jerusalem Artichoke & Oca
List is subject to change as certain seeds are tested for germination and quality, and as seeds are acquired or replaced.
Grow Me Organics Landscape Design and Maintenance focuses on native and edible landscapes as a way of creating sustainable neighborhoods. If you are too busy, or don't know how to grow your own fruit, herbs, and vegetables, we come in and do it all for you!
Services offered:
Landscape Design and Maintenance, Consultations, Backyard Gardening; permaculture, and Winter Gardening.
